He wasn’t happy.
“Why didnae ‘kin wake me up?” asked the Scottish man who missed Snowdon.
“You knew I wanted to see Snowdon. That was the whole point of getting this here train. And I missed ‘kin thing.”
The Scottish lady who saw Snowdon shrugged. She had a strong Glaswegian accent. “It’s ya fault for having that big lunch y’ad and all them beers. Anyhows, I got a picture of it on oor wee phone camera in my hands here.”
“ A picture is nae the ‘kin same,” sulked the Scotsman who was part of a bus tour party occupying most of the third class carriage aboard the West Highland Railway’s NG/G6 no 138. She was facing towards the engine and he facing away. He had had a good sleep and she had seen all the sights.
He shook his head in disbelief and disappointment and said something which wasn’t Ffestiniog.
The Ffestiniog Railway Company -Rheillffordd Eryri – is the oldest independent railway company in the world. It operates the oldest narrow gauge (1’ 11 half inch) railway in the UK. From March to November, it links up with the longest heritage railway – the 2011 Welsh Highland Railway- for a forty mile, two-and-a-half hour £40 journey from Blainau Ffestiniog and then west coast-to-north-west coast from Portmagog to Caernarfon’s new £3m station.
The Scotsman managed to remain conscious to Croesnor (location of the Glaslyn Osprey Centre) and saw Cnicht (knight’s helmet ) peak and Beddgeleret , named after a legendary hound killed by a Welsh king who though it had eaten his baby. But his eyelids began to droop near Rhyd Ddu (black ford) and he was asleep through most of Gwynedd scenery, the rivers, waterfalls, oak woodlands, river-cut gorges and hand-cut gorges. He snored through stunning mountain passes (cols) and tunnels made by Cornish tin engineers passed him by.
Pulled by the 60 ton 1893 “Linda” we passed her sister “Blanche” at Tan-Y-Bwlch ( “under the pass”) where the late Mrs Bessie Jones used to welcome passengers in traditional costume and give them tea in the station house. We rubbernecked the tiny Campbell’s Platform – a stone hut, gate and bench. The halt served Plas Dduallt manor house where Oliver Cromwell reputedly sheltered during his campaign against the Royalists of North Wales. Colonel Andrew Campbell bought the house in 1962 and ran his own train. An explosive expert, he helped with rock blasting during the construction of the line.
There are several request stops. Including Coed y Bleiddau ( “Wood of Wolves”) where you can rent your own platform and private halt. And stay in the restored 1863 station house.
Established by an Act of Parliament in 1832, the Ffestiniog originally once served twenty-three slate quarries. The speed of its “dandy” wagons was controlled by brakemen who risked serious injury leaping from one wagon to another to tighten or loosen brakes. Steam locomotives were introduced in 1863 with the Small England “Princess” and “Mountaineer”. The line was served by other locos including “Little Giant”, “Little Wonder” and “Welsh Pony”.
The Ffestiniog Railway Company is the oldest surviving railway company in the world . The original line closed in 1936 but from 1951 was completely rebuilt by volunteers. It was the world’s first preserved steam railway.
The eleven “Great Little Trains of Wales” are “the” way to see some of the best scenery in the British Isles. As well as a modern observation and Pullman carriage, offering afternoon teas complete with silver tiered-cake stands, with polished brass fittings, hardwood interiors and liveried staff, the Ffestiniog & Welsh Highland railway routes preserve the old-world charm and romance of steam travel offering bygone sounds and smells as well as ancient landscapes. If you can keep awake and not be lulled into a doze by the clackety-clack as the train sways through the countryside or hypnotized by the lady in front shuffling from one window to another so she doesn’t miss a photographic opportunity. Especially the biggest.
Known as Yr Wyddfa in Welsh , at 3560’ (1085m) Snowdon (Old English for snow hill ) is the highest point in England and Wales. For £39 return , heritage steam engine “Lily” ( original Swiss chassis and bogy) or the diesel “ Mountain Goat” takes you on the 1896 track takes you to the summit to the “Land of Eagles” (Hafon Eryri). Carriages are named after Welsh celebrities like Dame Shirley Bassey. The route takes in two viaducts, Hebron (named after a chapel built by Welsh-speaking locals in 1833) , the Valley of Reeds, Rocky Valley and Clogwyn , home of the witch Canthrig Burt.
There is a visitors’ centre, a café and a cairn said to be a giant’s grave. According to Welsh folklore, the giant Rhitta Gawr wore a cloak made of beards. It was slain by King Arthur after it tried to steal his. Arthur is said to have died at Bwlch y Saethau, on the ridge between Snowdon and Y Lliwedd. The train toots and the steam hisses all the way.
The 4.7mile track is the only track and pinion railway in the UK and gets you up close and personal to the arrete Crib Goch (red ridge) and the cliff faces used by Sir Edmund Hilary and his expedition for practice before their 1953 ascent of Everest.
As the Scotsman snored away, open-mouthed but out of count, we saw Snowdon and the guard told us that its Watkin Pass has been used in 1968 to film “Carry On Up The Khyber Pass”. The young man in charge of the refreshments trolley said a Lara Croft movie was also was filmed in Snowdonian National Park.
The seven-mile Talyllyn Railway is another great small railway. Starting from Tywyn on the Mid-Wales coast, halfway between Dolgellau and Machynlleth, it goes to Abergynolwyn and Nant Gwernol, along the Fathew Valley and past the three waterfalls comprising Dolgoch Falls.
On The Welsh Highland Heritage Railway one-mile demonstration line, at Pen-y-Mount Junction, you can watch the guard changing the points and signals.
Bala Lake Railway occupies the trackbed of the former Ruabon Barmouth line of the Great Western Railway between Llanuwchllyn and Pen-y-Bont Halt on the opposite side of Llyn Tegid (Bala Lake). Opened in 1972, it also employs ex-quarry engines.
The Llanberis Lake Railway skirts the shores of Padarn lake, passing the thirteenth century Dolbadarn Castle, birthplace of the Welsh Prince Llywelyn the Great ( 1173-1240), terminating at Penllyn. The National Slate Museum is at Llanberis below the Elidir mountain and near the Dinorwig quarry.
The Fairbourne Railway, formerly as a horse-drawn tramway, was converted to a miniature steam railway in 1916. It provides views of the Mawddach Estuary and Cadair Idris mountains before arriving at Barmouth ferry station. The steam locomotives are mini replicas of narrow-gauge engines.
The Brecon Mountains Railway travels ten miles from Pant nearer Merthyr Tydifil to Torpantan. The 1903 Welshpool and Llanfair offers a scenic 16 mile journey and the 1902 Vale of Rheidol – used to transport lead ore – goes from Abersywyth to the Devil’s Bride waterfall in Ceridigion.
Back on Welsh Highland, the Scotsman woke up just after Waunfawr (The Big Moor). While he was asleep, we had waved back at signalwomen, housewives hanging out washing mothers cradling babies, hikers beginning their hikes, farmers waiting on tractors at level crossings and many children. The train whistled and the steam plumed as we chugged past miscellaneous “moels” including Moel Hebog ( bare hill of the hawk or falcon) Mymndd Maur ( big mountain) or the Elephant (Yr Ellifant”), overlooking the Llyn Cwellyn reservoir.
We learnt some Welsh. That “glyn” is a glen, “lyn” is a lake, “dinas” a hill , “aber” a confluence of rivers , “merthyr” ( martyr) “blaenau” means top , “ffordd” road and “ffrwd” stream.
The Scotsman was full of “f” words. But was conscious as Linda crossed “Traeth Maur!” (big sands) on the 1811 Cob, a seawall or embankment built through the home of gulls, mudflat-wading little egrets and oyster catchers.
Right on time, we pulled into the eastern shore of the Menai Straits, opposite the Isle of Anglesey. In 1955, the royal town of Caernarfon (fort on the river ) lost in a vote to Cardiff to become the Welsh capital. Its thirteenth century castle, built as a royal palace for Edward 1, staged the investiture of the future Edward V111 as Prince of Wales in 1911 and Prince Charles in 1969. You can stay in its Bath Tower.
The Scots were reunited with their coach driver and the Scotsman returned to his highlands, having slept through most of the Welsh ones.
Everyone said how much they had enjoyed the trip. Although for one man the day had been a massif disappointment.