While families flock to the winter wonderland of Lapland, Jane Wilson discovers there’s just as much to keep adults entertained too.
The harness was clasped around my hips, my triple-socked boots deep in powdery snow while Leah twitched her ears and tugged me forward into the forest. This was my first experience being led by a Siberian husky. She was nine years old, renowned for her princess attributes, a coat of a brown and white blend, one eye blue, the other brown, which set her apart from the herd. We followed a circular path, past pristine snow-draped pine trees, the air fresh and freezing but silent and still, other than the sound of paws and feet through a landscape of pure tranquillity. I was in Swedish Lapland, tucked into the folds of northern Sweden in Västerbotten, an Arctic expanse in which to melt into the rhythm of nature.
Adventures await
Outdoors is the indoors in this part of the world with plenty of creative ways to enjoy its untamed landscape. I joined a forest guided walk, the darkness lit from the beam of my head torch, the undergrowth silhouetted in shaped snow, the crackle of branches breaking the hush and the shadows following me. Next, I braced myself as I climbed down the steps into the icy river at Umeå Kallbad. I was encouraged to breathe deeply as the cold temperature seeped through until I felt numb. I lasted just over a minute and defrosted in the nearby sauna. Invigorated, I went for a second round. Here they run ‘Experience The Ice’ sessions for all ages. This was a trio of sensations – a fire-pit fika – hot chocolate and gingerbread to start and then the ice bath, and finally a sauna. Ice plunging is a popular health trend that teaches the body to warm up and handle discomfort as well as other benefits such as aiding circulation and strengthening the immune system.
Huskies are not the only wildlife we have come to know from this northern country. Hiding amongst the trees, the jagged shapes of antlers danced in tune with the clatter of hooves and our Christmas animal stars appeared before me, Oscar (not Randolph), the first, with his asymmetrical curly antlers, eager to be fed by hand with moss provided by the herder, Börje Stenlund from Vildmarkscamp in Malå. As the Sámi people are the caretakers of the reindeers, he shared the fascinating herding traditions of Lapland as well has the Sámi culture and way of life.
Traditional tastes and retreats
The food in Swedish Lapland centres on local ingredients and cooking traditions – think berries, reindeer, and of course fish such as pickled eel. In Umeå, Facit Bar is famed for its Swedish only ingredients. Often meals are cooked outside to take advantage of the scenic landscape backdrop and fresh crisp air. Bundled up in every layer of clothing possible, I cooked my lunch over a fire, an iron frying pan in hand to cook a Kolbulle, a Swedish bacon pancake with lingon berries… yummy. But you won’t go hungry living like a local. Fika time is respected here. Fika is a social Swedish coffee break, a ritual which dates back to the 18th century. It’s a time to pause, connect and recharge for company and conversation. Try the kanelbulle, a cinnamon bun so good you will want two.
There is a great choice of unique accommodation styles; from a gothic themed boutique hotel in the centre of Umeå, a bird’s nest tree house hidden amongst the branches (perfectly positioned for sightings of the northern lights), to a simple hut compact with an indoor fire stove with views over the frozen lake and a room in one of the world’s largest wooden hotels. Such variety illustrates the uniqueness of this corner of Sweden, its warm hospitality oozing from the soul-healing elements of pure nature.
The Lucia Celebration is one of Sweden’s most cherished traditions. Held on December 13th to bring light into the darkest time of the year, it is marked by a procession of singers with angelic voices led by Lucia dressed in white robes carrying flickering candles. I sat in the Landskyrkan Church, the atmosphere filled with warmth and depth. This memorable spectacle represented the light of Sweden, which had shone throughout my trip, a radiance that travelled with me from my walk with Leah, the husky, my lunch date with Oscar the reindeer, the hopeful future of the Sami people and the illuminated kindness of the Swedish people, their lifestyle balance all snuggled into the scenic landscape folds of Swedish Lapland.
Next steps
To plan and book a break to Swedish Lapland, speak to our Silver Travel Advisors on 0800 412 5678.