Texas is the second largest American state by area and population, and Fort Worth is known as the place ‘where the West begins’. Open-range cattle drives took place during the 19th century when more than 10 million head of cattle were herded along the Chisholm Trail, named after Jesse Chisholm who established a wagon route in 1864. Following the American Civil War, the Chisholm Trail enabled the mass movement of cattle from southern Texas, through the Red River into Indian Territory and onto Kansas.
Today Fort Worth, known as ‘Cowtown’, attracts 9.4 million visitors annually and on arrival and bursting with enthusiasm I headed for the luxurious Crescent Hotel located on Camp Bowie Boulevard. Recipient of the 2024 Condé Nast Traveller’s Reader’s Choice Award for the No. 1 Hotel in Texas and a 2025 Tripadvisor Traveller’s Choice Award, the property sits at the crossroads of downtown and the vibrant Cultural District.
UBF Team
Check-in procedures were swift and efficient and my luggage was whisked away in a jiffy. I was escorted to a luxurious one bedroom metropolitan suite measuring 717sq.ft. Features include floor to ceiling windows flooding the separate living room with natural light. I was delighted to make use of a Nespresso coffee machine and as I sank into the plump sofa I felt at home in an instant.
Keen to take advantage of the Crescent Hotel’s spa I made my way post haste to the tranquillity of the Canyon Ranch, which covers 11,000 square feet and includes steam and treatment rooms, steam showers and a plush private seating area. The opportunity to relax in the steam room was my first priority and after spending quite some time in the warm and soothing waters of the Jacuzzi I whiled away more time in the luxuriant relaxation room. I was then guided to an opulent and spacious salon for my first class manicure and pedicure. Feeling suitably preened and deeply pampered I was ushered into an exquisite massage room and my first rate masseur ensured that all the stresses and tensions of my long journey vanished. Feeling at ease amid the soothing aromas of the essential oils and the gentle strains of the surrounding music my energy was restored and I was ready to explore the city.
For a taste of Texan culture and Fort Worth’s rich Western heritage I headed for the Cowtown Coliseum to attend a stunning performance of the Stockyard’s Championship Rodeo at the home of the world’s first indoor rodeo. The only year-round rodeo in the world highlights this competitive, timed sport, which includes bull and ‘bronc’ riding, bareback and ranch saddle riding, roping contests and barrel racing. The sound of thunderous hooves and the sight of a magnificent bull bursting out of his holding pen with a very unwelcome rider on his back is overwhelming and the power of the beast determined to buck the equally determined rider off before he can reach his target of eight seconds is absolutely exhilarating. I was simply mesmerised by the extraordinary spectacle and cheered loudly along with the adoring crowd.
The following morning I was up with the larks, and after indulging in an extravagant breakfast in Emilia’s, the Crescent hotel’s comfortable and contemporary restaurant, I made my way to Main Street in Fort Worth’s downtown Sundance Square; the site of the Sid Richardson Museum, which exhibits paintings by the premier Western artists, Frederic Remington (1861 to 1909) and Charles M. Russell (1864-1926), providing the viewing public with an insight into the past. The collection, which reflects the harsh realities and romantic narrative of the American West, is the legacy of the late Texan oilman and philanthropist Sid Williams Richardson (1891 to 1959). I was most fortunate to view Remington’s 1908 oil on canvas entitled Apache Medicine Song. Remington’s talent for capturing a scene so full of life and movement, whilst focusing on light, colour and mood is clear. Another mesmerising work is entitled When White Men Turn Red and was painted in 1922 by Charles M Russell. Reflecting the artist’s late work in oils and his use of vibrant colours, this piece is another example of the past brought to life.
Back at the Crescent hotel and following a late afternoon snooze I decided to squeeze into my not-so-little black dress and dine in style and I headed out to The Mont restaurant, located on Saint Amand Circle in Fort Worth’s Montserrat district. This impressive venue reflects the glamour of the 1950’s with diners surrounded by soothing mahogany and the comfort of plush leather and in the centre of the space is a striking bar with a bevy of tenders creating the most extravagant selection of cocktails. I ordered the succulent and tender Wagyu Short Rib, presented with potato and truffle pave and the most delicious sauce bordelaise. Accompanied by the Plumpjack Merlot this was a dining experience to savour and of course the service, as expected, was exceptional.
Seeking a casual spot to show off some sharp dance moves, I headed for Billy Bob’s, the largest ‘honky tonk’ in the world, which is located at Rodeo Plaza, in the heart of Fort Worth’s Stockyards. This very popular venue offers a wide range of entertainment including ‘live’ concerts, bull riding (on a smaller scale to the Cowtown Coliseum), line dancing, pool tables and bars aplenty and I am not ashamed to reveal that after a couple of ‘shots’ I attempted my own version of line dancing and I might just have got away with it!
For my last day in Fort Worth I headed back to the Stockyards, which in 1976, was listed on the National Register as a historical district. I viewed the Stockyard’s daily cattle drive which takes place along Exchange Avenue at 11.30 and 16.00 hrs. This spectacular parade of Texas Longhorns herded by several drovers on horseback reflects the area’s history as an important livestock centre due to the arrival of railroads in 1876. In just over thirty years later the Stockyards sold a million cattle each year but in the 1950’s livestock auctions were held closer to where the cattle were produced. After the parade I spotted an enormous bull, which was clearly tame, waiting patiently outside the Livestock Exchange Building and enthusiastic members of the public were queuing to get on his back. However, I was not one of them!
Instead, I made my way to the Stockyards Museum, located inside the Livestock Exchange Building which dates back to 1866. The museum showcases the rich history of the Fort Worth Stockyards and many of the exhibits focus on Native American connections and the Chisholm Trail. I was fascinated by the American Indian artefacts related to the Comanche and Kiowa tribes, known to frequent the area along the Trinity River. An elaborate feathered head dress and a fur head dress complete with horns had me spellbound. There is also a collection of saddles, cowboy boots, hand guns, hats and outlaw ‘wanted dead or alive’ posters, including Butch Cassidy and The Sundance Kid, immortalised by the 1969 movie starring Robert Redford and Paul Newman. Another interesting exhibit is the 1949 Silver Spur Award presented to the actor John Wayne for his work in the movies Red River and She Wore a Yellow Ribbon.
For my last evening in Fort Worth I headed to Panther City BBQ, located on East Hattie Street. This very popular casual restaurant has a warm and inviting atmosphere and I found a comfy perch and ordered the delicious Panther Punch cocktail, which has a champagne and vodka base. The tempting aromas emanating from the sizzling meats on the on-site smoker drifted subtly across the venue and I opted for the succulent brisket, with a side of dill potato salad. I was easily persuaded to try the ‘nutter butter’ cheesecake pudding and as my visit to Fort Worth came to a close I ordered another cocktail, raised my glass high and made a toast to this fascinating city.
Visit Fort Worth, and like me you’re sure to have a ‘swell’ time.
‘Top tip’ – Family attraction. Fort Worth Zoo, located on Colonial Parkway, dates back to 1909, covers 64 acres and is surprisingly simple to navigate. Now housing more than 7,000 native and exotic animals, representing more than five hundred species, Fort Worth Zoo is one of only five sites throughout the world to house two of the five rhino species (black and greater one-horned Asian rhino). Working actively with more than thirty countries around the world, conservation is the main focus and the zoo’s inspiring reputation ensures that the current visitor numbers of one million annually will continue to rise. For more information visit fortworthzoo.org
By Rebecca Underwood, BA Hons | Travel Journalist